Vitamin B
Vitamin B3, niacin (aka nicotinic acid or niacinamide) hasn’t been studied as long as the other vitamins. However, the studies that have been done show that, when used at high enough levels, vitamin B3 can help even out your skintone, in particular, reducing the yellowing often associated with aged skin.
Why it works isn’t 100 percent clear. Procter & Gamble has several theories (and twice as many patents) on the mode of action. When used in combination with other ingredients like AHAs and vitamin A, or even simple ingredients like glycerin there is an apparent and visible improvement in the coloring of aged skin.
Vitamin C
L-Ascorbic acid is another ingredient that has been well-documented as effective for reversing the signs of photoaging. Beyond being an antioxidant, vitamin C has been shown to help regulate collagen production and promote proper collagen orientation (neatly bundled as opposed to scattered around in complete disarray). It also helps redistribute melanin in the skin to reduce buildup in one spot resulting in even skintone. Fainter furrows and a reduction of lines and deep wrinkles are other benefits of L-Ascorbic Acid.
Vitamin C is tricky though because in the acid form it oxidizes rapidly, turning your white cream brown in a matter of days and becoming ineffective. There are several other forms of vitamin C that are more stable in skincare products but less efficacious than the acid. Ascorbyl palmitate is commonly used but in most cases will not give you the results of ascorbic acid. The ingredient called Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable oil based cousin of vitamin C and is actually very effective.
Let me know if you have any ingredient questions. I'm here to help!
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